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Build GuideP18

Wishbone Suspension Guide

Suspension type comparison, double wishbone build steps, parameter tuning, different terrain settings, tank suspension, common problems, and racing car examples.

Category

builds

Guide Type

Build Guide

Version

1.0 (Drilling Thunder)

Wishbone Suspension Guide

Suspension is what separates a smooth-riding vehicle from a bone-jarring mess. The double wishbone suspension is one of the most capable designs in Scrap Mechanic — offering excellent wheel travel, consistent camber, and superior handling. This guide covers suspension types, wishbone construction, tuning, and terrain-specific setups.

Suspension Type Comparison

TypeTravelHandlingComplexityBest For
Basic SpringShortPoorLowSimple cars, early game
Trailing ArmMediumMediumMediumRear suspension, trucks
Double WishboneLongExcellentHighOff-road, racing, performance vehicles
MacPherson StrutMediumGoodMediumFront-wheel drive cars, compact vehicles
Solid AxleMediumMediumLowHeavy trucks, towing, simple design
Tank SuspensionVery LongPoor on roadHighTanks, tracked vehicles, extreme off-road

Double Wishbone Build Steps

The double wishbone uses two parallel A-arms (upper and lower) to control wheel movement, with a spring/damper providing support. This design keeps the wheel perpendicular to the ground throughout the suspension travel.

Components Needed (per wheel)

  • 2x A-arm (wishbone) structures — upper and lower (build from blocks/beams)
  • 2x hinges — one at each end of each A-arm (4 total per wheel)
  • 1x wheel hub / upright — connects A-arms to wheel
  • 1x spring + damper (or suspension block) — provides support and damping
  • 1x wheel + tire
  • Steering hinge (for front wheels only)

Construction Steps

  1. Build the chassis mount — Create a rigid mounting point on the vehicle frame for the suspension
  2. Build lower A-arm — Construct a V-shaped arm, mount to chassis with two hinges at the wide end
  3. Build upper A-arm — Construct a shorter V-shaped arm, mount above the lower arm with two hinges
  4. Connect wheel hub — Attach the outer ends of both A-arms to the wheel hub/upright
  5. Add spring/damper — Mount between the lower A-arm and chassis (or upper arm and chassis)
  6. Attach wheel — Mount wheel and tire to the hub
  7. Add steering (front) — Connect a steering hinge between the hub and a steering actuator
  8. Test and adjust — Compress the suspension, check for binding, ensure full travel

Key Geometry Principles

  • Parallel arms — Upper and lower A-arms should be roughly parallel for consistent camber
  • Longer arms = more travel — Longer A-arms allow greater wheel movement
  • Roll center — The intersection of the A-arm lines determines the roll center; affects body roll
  • Camber gain — Properly designed wishbones maintain negative camber during compression for better grip
  • Ackermann steering — Front wheels should toe out during turns for proper steering geometry

Parameter Tuning

Suspension tuning is the art of balancing comfort, handling, and performance. Adjust these parameters to suit your vehicle and driving style.

Spring Rate

  • Soft springs — More comfort, more body roll, more travel. Good for off-road.
  • Stiff springs — Better handling, less body roll, harsher ride. Good for racing.
  • Weight matching — Heavier vehicles need stiffer springs to support the weight
  • Front vs rear — Front springs often stiffer (engine weight); rear softer for traction

Damping

  • Compression damping — Controls how fast the suspension compresses. Too soft = bottoming out; too stiff = harsh ride
  • Rebound damping — Controls how fast the suspension extends. Too soft = bouncing; too stiff = wheels don't follow terrain
  • Balanced setup — Slightly more rebound than compression is typical for good handling

Ride Height

  • Low ride height — Better aerodynamics, lower center of gravity, less roll. Risk of bottoming out.
  • High ride height — More ground clearance, better off-road. Higher center of gravity, more roll.
  • Adjust via spring preload — Compress the spring slightly to raise ride height

Camber

  • Negative camber — Top of wheel tilts inward. Better cornering grip. Typical for performance vehicles.
  • Positive camber — Top of wheel tilts outward. Better straight-line stability. Rarely used.
  • Zero camber — Wheel perpendicular. Even tire wear. Good for general purpose.
  • Dynamic camber — Wishbone suspension naturally adds negative camber during compression

Toe

  • Toe-in — Front of wheels point inward. Better straight-line stability. Typical for rear wheels.
  • Toe-out — Front of wheels point outward. Better turn-in response. Typical for front wheels.
  • Zero toe — Wheels parallel. Minimal tire wear.

Different Terrain Settings

TerrainSpringDampingRide HeightCamberTravel
Paved Road / RacingStiffFirmLowNegative (-2 to -3°)Short
Dirt / GravelMediumMediumMediumSlight Negative (-1°)Medium
Off-Road / RocksSoftProgressiveHighNegative (-1 to -2°)Long
Sand / DesertSoftSoftHighSlight NegativeLong
Snow / IceMediumSoftMediumZero to Slight NegativeMedium
Mixed / GeneralMediumMediumMediumSlight Negative (-1°)Medium

Tank Suspension

Tracked vehicles (tanks, bulldozers) use a different suspension approach — multiple road wheels on each side, often with individual springs or a torsion bar system.

  • Road wheels — Multiple small wheels along each track, each with its own suspension
  • Torsion bars — Long metal bars that twist to provide spring action
  • Christie suspension — Large road wheels with springs, high speed capability
  • Bogie suspension — Pairs of wheels on a shared bogie with a single spring
  • Track tension — Adjust track tension to prevent derailing; too loose = track comes off, too tight = excessive wear

Common Problems

ProblemCauseSolution
Suspension bottoms outSprings too soft or travel too longStiffen springs, add bump stops, reduce travel
Vehicle bounces excessivelyDamping too low (rebound)Increase rebound damping
Harsh, jarring rideDamping too high (compression) or springs too stiffSoften compression damping, use softer springs
Excessive body rollSprings too soft or roll center too highStiffen springs, add anti-roll bar, lower roll center
Wheels don't follow terrainRebound damping too high or springs too stiffSoften rebound, use softer springs
Suspension binds / sticksA-arm geometry misaligned or hinges bindingCheck A-arm parallelism, lubricate hinges, ensure free movement
Uneven tire wearIncorrect camber or toe settingsAdjust camber to near-zero, set proper toe
Vehicle pulls to one sideUneven suspension settings left/rightMatch spring rates and damping on both sides

Racing Car Example Setup

For a high-performance on-road racing vehicle:

  • Suspension: Double wishbone, all four corners
  • Springs: Stiff (front slightly stiffer than rear)
  • Damping: Firm compression, firm rebound (slightly more rebound)
  • Ride height: Low (as low as possible without bottoming out)
  • Camber: -2.5° front, -1.5° rear
  • Toe: Slight toe-out front, slight toe-in rear
  • Anti-roll bar: Stiff front, medium rear (reduces understeer)
  • Tires: Low-profile, wide, sticky compound

Suspension Building Tips

  1. Test in Creative first — Experiment with suspension geometry in Creative before committing resources in Survival
  2. Build one corner first — Perfect one wheel's suspension, then replicate it for the other three
  3. Use rigid mounting points — Flexible chassis mounts ruin suspension performance; reinforce the frame
  4. Ensure free movement — No blocks should interfere with suspension travel throughout the full range
  5. Match left and right — Identical settings on both sides for balanced handling
  6. Start soft, stiffen up — Begin with softer settings and gradually stiffen until you find the right balance
  7. Test on different terrain — A setup that works on flat ground may fail on rough terrain; test everywhere
  8. Document your settings — Write down spring rates, damping, and geometry so you can replicate successful setups

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